Edinburgh – European Youth Championships 2014

Edinburgh! It begins to feel familiar to me. 😉 We had a nice team full of young, new climbers and I was so glad to be the oldest in the team. 🙂  That’s totally different from the first time I went along, being a little girl and the youngest myself.

But I have experienced that competition on itself always stays the same. On every level or age it is hard and exhausting. You need the same perseverance and dedication when you are a kid or a professional. For me, it feels exactly the same. Maybe there is a difference in how nervous I am and how blocked my stomach is during breakfast, but the feeling is identical.

The first route had some terrible moves just in the beginning. I was so glad that I got safely through this part and I topped out just in time.

In the second route every one knew they had to speed up, not to get a time-out. Except the very first climbers who climbed it as usual, discovered their time-out when they came down. That happened to my friend Celine, who had to climb 3rd to climb in youth A. 🙁

After the qualifications I was tied with Jessica, we had topped out both the routes.

Sunday was the big day and I felt more nervous than usual. That was not nice, but it’s so hard to stop that feeling.
Now that we moved to the Juniors, we mostly climb at the end and we have lots of time in isolation. I really like that! 🙂 Especially having enough time for warming up is something very pleasant.

Our route was one only for our category and it looked fairely logical. There was one move which looked like a jump, but I thought the holds would be allright, so that the jump would not be too hard.

I started the route quite confident and not too stressed. The beginning went well and was not that hard and then I arrived at what looked as a jump. I clipped a quickdraw above my head, but then realised that it would probably hinder me when I had to jump. So I unclipped it, something I’ve never done in a competition before. 😉
Then I went for it with my left hand only, leaving my feet on the holds. When touching the hold I realised this was not the right way. So I fell into the previous holds again… with a little scream, or maybe not a very little one. I had been really afraid to fall out and just hung there recovering a bit and concentrating again on the move. I really wanted to make it, so then I jumped with all I had. With both my hands this time… I was relieved I had made it, but from that moment on I had lost a bit of my confidence and it was hard to keep on going. I went on and on, trying to recuperate all the time. Then I came at the end of the roof and I made the move to get out of the overhang. When I did it, I heard the public cheering loudly and I was a little surprised. I really thought Jessica and maybe others before me had topped the route. I did the last moves and clipped the last quickdraw and I was really amazed that I had topped out. It all felt like in a dream. When I came down I heard that I had won! I was so thankful because I knew I could have fallen at the jump…

Jessi was 2nd and Salomé and Julia were tied on the 3rd place.

After the competition, I had some very nice chats with other climbers. It was so heart-warming to get congratulations and hugs of my friends. 🙂

 

This is a movie of the finals:

 

European Youth Cup Imst

Last weekend I climbed my first international competition of the year. After the winter stop, I met all my climbing friends again. All of the same age and with the same passion for climbing and competing. 🙂

My age group has been incredibly strong from the first year we competed in youth B. We all kept on training and motivating each other over the years. And now it was time to become Juniors! I am now of the same age as the ones whom I admired so much when I was younger.

It was again very hard for us to get a place on the podium. I gave everything I had and I was able to top out the final route. I was very happy that I became 1st. 🙂 Jessi was 2nd and Salomé 3rd. It’s a pitty that Julia just missed the podium as it very hard for the French climbers to be qualified for the World Youth Championships in September.

Although I gain more and more experience over the years, it’s still very hard to be calm and confident during a competition. You have only one chance and only on that particular moment… Competition climbing stays really hard!

Here is a movie of the final route.

Podium Imst 2014

Picture by Andy Knabl

Finally… rocks again!

I have had great Easter holidays in one of my favourite countries: Spain! Splendid weather, very nice people and lots of beautiful rock. I really enjoyed the climbing and I was able to sent 2 8c’s. Full story coming soon! 🙂

DSC00112

National TV interview

On Sunday 1 December I was interviewed by Ruben van Gucht in a program ‘de zevende dag’ (‘the zeventh day’). It was a very nice experience to be in the studio for a live broadcasting! 🙂

Click on the picture to see the program. My part starts at 75min 18sec.

 

Last World Cup of the season

World Cup Kranj 16-17 November

Saturday: qualifications and semifinals on the same day! I was able to top both routes but I had given all I had. I felt really tired.

The semifinal route (late in the evening) was hard but I managed to climb just high enough to secure a place in the finals. Loïc Timmermans finished on a promising 19th place, Mathilde Brumagne ended 25th.

Sunday: a bit surprising: Jain not on the podium. I guess both Jain and Mina were very nervous. Happy for Momoka, though, who won her first gold this season.

Jain and Sachi win the cup!

I’m happy with a 7th place and a 4th World Cup final!

World Cup Kranj, final route

 

 

Worldcup Valence

My parents and I travelled to France 2 days before the competition. We had a nice relaxing day at the rocks where my parents climbed and I studied and enjoyed the sunny weather.

The qualifications went very well. I did not feel totally warmed up in the 1st route, but I was happy that I fell quite high up. The 2nd route was very hard at the end. Although I felt really pumped, I was able to top out!

In the semifinals I really had to fight, but I was happy that I had been able to give everything. Then the speaker said that I would be in the finals!

I was so happy to be in the finals and to read the route together with the strongest female climbers! The beginning of the route was terrible, but it was amazing to climb with so many people cheering me on. The moves were really hard and I fell totally exhausted, but very happy. I loved watching the other climbers like Jain Kim who climbed the route so beautifully! 🙂

It was an unbelievable competition and I am very thankfull for this experience!

Mathilde became 17th and Loïc 19th.

Photo: H. Wilhelm