Summer holidays 2012

My parents and I left on Wednesday 4 July. We drove to La Chambotte in France.

La Chambotte (July 5th and 6th)
In Easter holidays my friend Julia Chanourdie and her family showed us this beautiful climbing area. They also showed me an 8b named ‘Tartine’. I did not succeed in doing it in Easter holidays so I wanted to try it again. On Thursday I worked it out again and I did some attempts. In the last attempt I fell really at the end. That evening we went swimming in the lake ‘Lac du Bourget’.

Lac du Bourget

Lac du Bourget

The next day I first warmed up and than I did an attempt. I fell again just at the end. Then I did another attempt and I could top it! I was so happy and thankful!

Tartine 8b

Tartine 8b


Col de Marocaz (July 8th and 9th)

The Chanourdie family also told us about a climbing area called ‘Col de Marocaz’. On the rest day we drove to this place and we discovered a very nice lake called ‘Lac de la Thuile’.

Lac de la Thuile

Lac de la Thuile

The next day we first went swimming because ‘Col de Marocaz’ is an afternoon crag. I worked out ‘Ta mère sur un spit de 8’ 8a. I could climb it in the second attempt.

A big bird we saw

A big bird we saw

On Monday we also climbed there and I tried ‘Une émeraude en or ‘ 8a+. It begins with a 7b and then there are some very hard moves on small holds. I fell 2 times there and it started to get late. I did one more attempt and I was really happy that I could top it!

A little mouse who was 'stealing' our bread

A little mouse who was 'stealing' our bread

On Tuesday and Wednesday we had rest days in preparation for the worldcup in Chamonix. We drove to a climbing area called ‘Les Garins’. In the guidebook was written that you had to drive up on a dirt road until you see a parking place. It was really funny (and quite dangerous) because the road was very bad. Luckily my father made it up to the parking place which was maybe good for 2 cars. Then we searched for the rocks and finally we found a path. It was quite adventurous.

On Wednesday we had a look at ‘Grotte de Banches’ which is a nice climbing area for Summer. We also went swimming in ‘Lac d’Annecy’ and then we drove to Chamonix.

Worldcup Chamonix (July 12th and 13th)
On the Thursday I could do my first worldcup in Chamonix! See:  news Chamonix!

Worldcup Chamonix 2012

The competition wall at the WC in Chamonix

On Saturday we went again to ‘Col de Marocaz’. I could climb ‘Tête de bite’ 7c. My father climbed this 7c too! I also tried ‘Une bite sur ma tête’ 8a+. It is quite short with small holds. I could climb it in the first attempt.

Col de Marocaz

Col de Marocaz

The next day it was by birthday! In the morning we searched for a nice French market and we found one! Watermelon, olives, earrings, dresses, bread, … I really like this! We also bought some artisanal nougat which tasted very well. We drove on to a lake where my parents gave me presents and we took a fresh dive. At the end of the day we ate pizza which was made in a small chalet in the centre of Gab. Then we drove on to Céuse.

The lake at my birthday

The lake at my birthday

Céuse (July 16th and 17th)
On Monday we climbed in Céuse. I had never been there before and it was very nice! We met a lot of competition climbers like Ana Tiripa from Germany, Sasha Digiulian, Jacquelyn Wu and Sarah from the USA, Tina Johnsen Hafsaas from Norway, Rebekka Stotz, Katherine Choong and Franz Krakenberger from Switzerland, Matilda Söderlund from Sweden, …! It was great to see so many people there! I climbed ‘Lapinerie’ 7b with Ana (she is in my age group) and together we worked out ‘Sueurs froides’ 8a+ which was very hard. I did a lot of attempts and I always fell in the beginning of the route. At the last attempt I was very tired but I could top it and it was so nice that Sasha and the others cheered me on!

In the 8a+

In 'Sueurs Froides' 8a+

The view from Céuse

The view from Céuse

We climbed in Céuse for another day. I tried to work out ‘Dures Limites’ an 8c Sasha was doing but this was too hard for me! I worked out ‘Bourinator’ 8a. I did some attempts and I could climb it in the last attempt of that day!

Céuse

Céuse

The next day we took a rest day and we drove to a small lake near ‘Ailefroide’ in ‘Les Écrins’. We already knew this place which is fantastic for swimming and campfire!

At the lake

At the lake

Tournoux (July 19th and 20th)
On Thursday 19 July we drove to a climbing area called ‘Tournoux’. There are crags which are near the road, but also ones which are higher up. We walked up but it was a bit dangerous and not very easy to reach. I worked out ‘Clin d’oeil au paradis d’en face’ 8c but there were 3 moves I couldn’t do. I decided to leave the quickdraws and try again the next day. I also climbed ‘Into the wild’ 7b+.

Tournoux

Tournoux

Friday we went to this crag again and I tried the 8c again but the moves were not possible for me so I took the quickdraws down. I worked out an 8a+ but the weather changed and it started raining very hard. I did another  7c and when we walked back to our van the rain had stopped.

Rue des Masques (July 21st)
In Tournoux we had heard from climbers about ‘Rue des Masques’ (conglomerate). The next day we went there and we met Christophe Depotter from Belgium with his family. It is a beautiful climbing area also for kids! Then I worked out ‘Racing in the street’ 8b with the
help of French climbers. I liked the route and I did 3 attempts.

Racing in the street 8b

Racing in the street 8b

On Sunday we had a nice day with the climbing family Lemière from Belgium at the lake! We had lunch together and played a lot in the water.

Swimming in the lake

Swimming in the lake

On Monday 23 July we climbed again at Rue des Masques. We met a climbing team from Germany with David Firnenburgh, Mia and Laura! My mother climbed a 7b on sight! I climbed ‘La Truite’ 7c. I did an attempt in the 8b and I managed to do it! I worked out ‘L’age en décomposition’ 8a+ which was really great. I could climb it in the second attempt and I was very happy! I had never climbed an 8b and an 8a+ on the same day.

 

Rue des Masques

Rue des Masques

The next day I could climb ‘Le druide en goguette’  7c on sight and I worked out ‘Carosse et citrouilles’ 8a. I climbed it in the first attempt.

Wednesday was a rest day for me, but my parents climbed in Rue des Masques. We also went supporting the Youth A girls who were competing at the boulder EYC in l’Argentière. In the afternoon we drove to Italy because my father had to be jury president in Val Daone for a speed worldcup.

Climbing in Arco
Terra Promessa and Massone (July 26th-29th)
We went to ‘Terra Promessa’ and I climbed ‘Progetto Caty ‘ 7c in the first attempt. I also worked out an 8a+ but it was not so nice and I could not do all the moves. We left the climbing area because the sun was coming and we passed ‘Massone’. We decided to climb there and I worked out ‘Fuego’ 8b with the help of 2 climbers from Switzerland. I did an attempt not being sure I would be able to do it the first go. I could do the first part and also the dyno. Then I started thinking that I could do it after all. I climbed on and managed to do the top part. I topped the route and I was so happy and thankful!

The Swiss guys had also told us that you can walk from the campsite to this climbing area. That was great for when my father would be at the competition so that my mother and I could easily come to this crag!

On Friday we had a rest day and we visited the beautiful town of Arco. It was very nice and, of course, we ate pizza and ‘gelatti’! We also brought my father to the competition in Val Daone.

In Arco

In Arco

 

The castle of Arco

The castle of Arco

The next day my mother and I climbed again in ‘Massone’. We had a nice walk from the campsite to the crag among the olive trees. I climbed ‘Fly Trap’ 7a+ and ‘Big spender’ 7b+. I tried to work out an 8c but it was too hard. On Wednesday I worked out ‘Super Maratona’ 8b. I could do all the moves but I found it very difficult. I did an attempt and I fell in the crux.

On the rest day we drove to a climbing hall in Bolzano/Bozen (Salewa Cube). We climbed there 2 days to train for the EYC in Imst. It is a great climbing hall which is half outside! We met Stefano Ghisolfi, his girlfriend Frederica Mingolla and his sister Claudia Ghisolfi who is in my age group!

The climbing hall 'Salewa Cube'

The climbing hall 'Salewa Cube'

After the competition in Imst we drove back home to our little cat and her kittens!