I was very happy that I could compete in an adult worldcup for the first time! On Wednesday 11 July  there was a nice opening ceremony with a presentation of all the climbers in Chamonix.

On Thursday it was the qualification round and also my father’s birthday! When I was warmed up my father and I walked from the warming up zone to the climbed wall which was on a square in the centre of Chamonix. Suddenly we saw that the girl before me was already climbing! It went really fast! So we ran to the wall and I quickly put on my climbing shoes. We were just on time so that I could climb. I am so happy that the first route went really well and I could top it.

The second route was really hard and I climbed the first part which was already very difficult. I fell at a move where a lot of climbers fell.

I was just in the semi-finals! This was a nice birthday present for my father! Unfortunately my friend Julia Chanourdie from France just missed the semi-finals.

The semi-final route was super hard and it was quite difficult to know how to take the holds. I became 24^th and I am very thankful because there were 55 girls and apart from Akiyo from Japan, all the top climbers were present.

Qualification round:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIknI8xkX2Q&feature=youtu.be

Semifinal round:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0B5pkYwEWM&feature=channel&list=UL

The worldcup was won by Mina Markovic (SLO). Jain Kim (KOR) was 2^nd and Momoka Oda (JPN) 3^rd. Sachi Amma (JPN) was 1^st in the men category. Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP) was 2^nd and Sean McColl (CAN) 3^rd.

On Friday 29 June we went with the team to Linz in Austria for the 4th European Youth Cup of 2012.

The competition wall (Photo: Timmermans)

The next day the qualifications went well and I could top the first route. I topped the second route as well although the technical part at the end was very difficult. Celine Cuypers from Belgium climbed super  in female youth B and got into the finals. So did Sébastien Berthe (male Juniors) en Loïc Timmermans (male Youth A).

In the first qualification route (Photo: Timmermans)

In the finals I could climb the first technical part and also a difficult move in the overhang. My feet came off twice at a certain point and I started hesitating because I thought I would not be able to clip if I moved on. I got pumped and fell. I ended up 4^th. Jessica Pilz (AUT) climbed very well and won! Hannah Baehr (GER) became 2^nd and Karoline Sinnhuber  (AUT) 3^rd.

The final route (Photo: Yves Guérrit)

Sébastien became 7^th and Celine 10^th. Loïc climb really strong en won the competition! It was a nice competition with very high temperatures!

EYC Linz (Photo: Timmermans)

female Youth A (Photo: Timmermans)

The 3rd EYC of 2012 took place in Voiron (France). We were only with 5 climbers from Belgium because this competition was just in the period of exams. After a fluent journey by car we arrived at the hotel with a nice view on a park and on rocks. When the coaches returned from the registration we all received a big bag with posters, a drink, … A great welcome!

Qualifications

On Saturday the qualifications went well and I could top the first route. I also topped the second route and I was very happy to be in the finals! I found the qualification routes difficult, but I liked them.

Maëlys Gillart (female youth B) climbed fantastic! Unfortunately she became just 11^th. Koen Baekelandt (male youth A) who started this year with national and international competitions, became 29^th.

Celine Cuypers (female youth B) and Loïc Timmermans (male youth A) were both qualified for the finals.

Finals

The finals were at the same day. The first move of the final route looked a bit strange and I was happy that I managed to do it. I fell two moves before the top and I was very pumped. I am really thankful that I could win! Tereza Svobodova (CZE) became 2^nd and Jessica Pilz (AUT) 3^rd.

Celine climbed well and found a no-hands rest with a knee bar! Unfortunately she fell too early and became 10^th. Still well done!

Loïc climbed the highest together with Geoffray De Flaugergues (FRA). He became 2^nd because of the new European rule of time.

It was a great competition with a fantastic atmosphere. The French speaker Christopher Hardy said funny things and you could understand his English very well.

I was really happy that I could go to France because it is such a nice country. It was also super that I met so many friendly girls from other countries again.

Photo: Climb2Climb

On Friday we left with 5 climbers from Belgium for the second EYC 2012 in Moscow.
It was a nice adventure to travel with the metro through Moscow.

Qualifications
The first qualification route I could top out together with 3 other girls. I could also top the second route with 6 other girls. In my age group were only 9 climbers so we all went to the finals.

Maëlys Gillart (female youth B) climbed really well and was qualified for the finals! Also William Frimout and Loïc Timmermans (both male youth A) were qualified. Unfortunately Koen Baekelandt was just 11th.

The competition wall (Photo: Dmitry Sushpanova)

On Saturday we had a day off so we went to visit Moscow. We saw the Red Square which was really beautiful. It was great!

Belgian Team

THIS IS NOT MY SPORT 🙁
On Sunday Maëlys finished 5th in the finals! William became 7th.

Junior female had the same final route as us and in the iso I discussed the route a bit with Tina Johnson Hafsaas (NOR). Juniors climbed first and the shouts of the spectators learned me that only Tina topped the route (the iso was next to the competition wall).

I had to climb last in Youth A and I knew that two girls had topped because of the public. A new European rule says that there is NO COUNTBACK anymore when there is a tie in the final, only the climbing time counts. So I knew what I had to do since suddenly my sport changed from lead climbing to lead-speed. The final route was surprisingly easy and I raced through the route to win the competition. I’m not so happy with this victory because it’s not fair towards the other girls that topped too and no fun either. My sport is lead climbing.

I hope the European Council will delete this rule.

Video clip

Podium EYC Moscow

Loïc also had to climb last in the final. He knew no one had topped because he had heard them all falling and hitting the wall. So for him it was a real lead competition. He climbed very well and won!

I am happy that I could go to Moscow. It was really nice to be there and it was a great experience!

Nice pictures on this Russian site

The first EYC 2012 was held in Edinburgh (Scotland). I am now climbing in youth A (age group 16-17).

The qualifications went well, although I climbed too slow in the first route and I had a time-out. The second route was in the overhang. I could top out and I liked it very much.

Chloé Caulier climbed really strong! She topped the first route, but unfortunately she also had a time-out. She topped the second route too! Julia Chanourdie topped both routes.

Celine Cuypers (youth B, 14-15 years old) climbed fantastic in her first international competition. She topped both qualification routes!

Celine Cuypers (Photo: Yves Guérit)

There were 5 climbers from Belgium in the finals: Sébastien Berthe, Loïc Timmermans, Chloé Caulier, Celine Cuypers and me.

My final route was again in the overhang and it was really great. In the middle I did not see a foothold, but I managed to pass. I touched the final hold and won the competition. I am happy and thankfull! Salomé Romain (FRA) became 2nd and Julia Chanourdie (FRA) 3rd.

Video clip

In my final route (Photo: Denis Timmermans)

Chloé Caulier climbed very well! She climbed as high as the 4th, but because of the new European rule of time she became 5th. Celine Cuypers became 3rd, which is really amazing! Loïc Timmermans became 3rd in the male youth A and Sébastien Berthe became 7th in juniors male.

Chloé Caulier (Photo: Denis Timmermans)

It was a great competition! In the Belgian team we were with 18 climbers. Afterwards we went walking in the Scottish Highlands which was really nice!

Belgian Team (Photo: Yves Guérit)

The Belgian Championships adults were held in Entre Ciel et Terre, a great climbing gym in Louvain-la-Neuve.

In the qualifications I could top out the first route together with other girls. Maëlys Gillart and Celine Cuypers topped too, they are actually too young for this competition but  could take part for the experience.

I found the second route very difficult but I could top it out together with Mathilde Brumagne. Unfortunately she was 2 seconds out of time.

In the final route the beginning was already very hard. I climbed up to a point where I hesitated to cross over. I got pumped and I fell in the next move. Mathilde Brumagne was very strong. She climbed almost up to the top, which is really great! She became Belgian Champion! I became 2nd and Chloé Caulier became 3rd.

Celine and Maëlys climbed very strong! Maëlys became 5th and Celine 4th.

In the male finals the route was also very hard. Loïc Timmermans became Belgian Champion. Jurgen Lis climbed also very strong and became 2nd. Jonathan Thomas became 3rd.

In speed Jurgen Lis became Belgian Champion with a very fast time! I won the female speed, Magali Hayen became 2nd and Chloé Caulier 3rd. It was sad for Emilie Guérit who injured herself during speed.

Report and photos at Belclimb (in French and Dutch) and Climb2Climb (in French).

Photographer: Hube