Category Archives: Rock Climbing

Belgian Championship 2013

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The competition took place in the climbing hall ‘Face Nord’ in Mons. I hadn’t had the opportunity to go training there, so it was the first time I climbed on this wall. It immediately pleased me because it was so bright. The organisers had done a good job by giving us fruit, water and even a T-shirt. Unfortunately there were only 8 girls in the female category, but I was happy to meet them again.

The first qualification route was quite technical with a very hard last move. I was the first  to top it, then Celine and Héloise climbed it too. After a rest and a banana, we watched the demonstration of the 2nd route which was a bit more overhanging. I had had 1,5 hour of rest between the routes, so I was glad that I was able to do it.

After the lunch break, we went into isolation. During observation I read the route with the other girls. Some parts were a bit difficult to understand, but all in all it looked nice. The beginning was not too difficult, but on a big grey volume it became really hard. Arriving  at the last part of the route I looked at my watch and saw 5’11”. So I thought ‘less than 1 minute left!’, which was wrong of course… I had 8 minutes of climbing time. 🙂 But I began climbing faster, which made that I did a tricky move without hesitating. I fell a bit higher.

I had to go to another isolation zone because Celine and I were both on 1st place after the qualifications. While waiting there I thought: ‘It would be great if Celine did the same as me.’ And indeed she did! We were going to climb a superfinal together for the 1st time. Super!

We had to climb the men’s route. The beginning was a bit strange and difficult to understand, but we both managed to do it. The middle section was great to climb with a special heel hook. Than a little roof and a traverse to the left, going up a bit and back to the right. Here the route became super hard with a really bad volume. I almost fell, but did some more moves. I was very happy that I had been able to climb that far! Actually as far as Loïc Timmermans who won in the men’s category although I had climbed that slow that my last moves were out of time. 🙂 Celine climbed very well too, doing the tricky beginning! I became 1st, Celine 2nd and Émilie 3rd.

Podium Belgian Championship 2013

After the lead final, there was still speed to come. Again there was no huge female category. 🙂 Héloise, Tine, Celine and I decided to participate. We all discovered that speed climbing is not easy at all! Jurgen Lis from Klimax (Puurs) was again the fastest in the men’s category for the 3th year in a row.

John Ellison from Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) visited Belgium and the Belgian Championship! It was really nice to meet him again!

Results and Pictures on Belclimb and Climb2Climb

Easter Holidays 2013 – Fish Eye 8c

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Holiday! Although it is quite a long drive, my parents and I had decided to go to Oliana in Spain. My friend Celine Cuypers came with us. Our white camper van is perfect for 3 people, but too small for 4, so we borrowed the huge Cuypers-Landrover! With its left side and roof folded out, 7 people can sleep in there! Celine’s father was going to join us 10 days later by flying to Reus.

The Cuypers-mobile

At home I had seen a movie in which Daila Ojeda climbed an 8c called ‘Fish Eye’. I heard that other women had climbed it too and I thought it would be amazing to be able to go climbing in Oliana.

After many hours of driving (and studying…), we finally reached the Spanish border. Celine and I were fascinated by the beautiful landscapes and nature of this country. We climbed on the roof of the Landrover when my father drove up the dirt road leading to the crag. Amazing view, the wind blowing in our hair…great to discover this beautiful climbing area.

Spain…

It was Sunday and there were a lot of climbers at the crag. We warmed up and then we met a Spanish girl who was going to try Fish Eye. I watched her climb and later that day I started working it out. The route is 50 meters long and I was only able to work out half of it because I was too tired to do the rest. It was really great to see Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda in Oliana! I understood very well that living here is indeed a good choice! 🙂

Lots of climbers

The next day we had to take a rest day because of … the rain! But it didn’t matter: we did some homework, washed ourselves (important!), played some games… In the afternoon we decided to do a small walk to a chapel on top of a rock. It was the 1st of April! In Belgium it means that we can make jokes! So Celine and I invented one. I sent Celine a message (we pretended that it came from Celine’s parents) in which they said that they would join us the next day instead of the next week. Celine acted very well and my parents believed it! When my father wanted to phone Celine’s mother we had to tell them it was a joke! 🙂

The next day we went to the crag again where Celine worked out Mishi-8a and I worked out Fish eye-8c. It rained quite hard but it didn’t matter since the rock was overhanging. Late in the evening I did one attempt, just to see where I could get. I fell at a far move in the middle. I had not found how to do it yet. It was a lock-off with the left hand, but it was not possible for me. However, I was happy that I got that far! We walked down and when we came at the dirt road everyone was full of brown mud. All the climbers were splashing through it… 🙂

On Wednesday we first went to Oliana village to buy some food and bread. It was quite warm and sunny, so we had breakfast near the road where I first washed my hair. 🙂 Afterwards we went to the crag where we met Micha Vanhoudt, a very strong Belgian climber, and Nina. They are travelling through Spain in their mobile home. After having warmed up Ceci topped her 8a! I worked out my 8c again, this time to the very end. I had a lot of difficulty doing the moves in the last crux which was at the vertical end of the route. I was a bit discouraged because it was so hard with very bad footholds. But I decided to do another attempt because the next day would be a rest day. The beginning went alright, I passed the first crux, but I fell at a higher one. I had difficulty finding the right way to do it, but I was tired too. I did not know if I would ever be able to climb the route. It was so long! I had a lot of respect for all the women who had managed to climb it!

Celine in Mishi-8a

Then my dad wanted me to do another attempt that day… just when I thought we would pack our bags…. The goal was to try to climb passed the  move with the lock-off (where I had now found another method). It was already late and I thought I would fall in the very beginning. The first crux was already very difficult and I felt that I was more tired than before. I climbed higher and I came at the point where I had fallen in my attempt earlier that day. I managed to do it and I was happy about it. So I climbed on and came at the point with the lock-off. I was already satisfied that I got that far. But my dad had told me to try the move with the lock-off so I decided to go for it. I did it my way and, I had it! Now that I had this hold I knew I could do some more moves. After some small holds there was a very good rest. From that point I decided not to give up, but I knew that a very hard part was still to come. I had a good rest and continued. It was very good that I had worked it out just before. Finally I got to the rest just before the last crux. During the whole route I had been praying for help and I really felt that I was not alone. Furthermore daddy was belaying and Celine and my mom were laying on a rock watching me climb. But it was getting dark and they couldn’t see me anymore! While I was resting I put a white dot on the small foothold which I would have to use. I thought: ‘I will probably be as tired as I am now when I arrive at this point in a newt attempt.’ So I decided to give everything I had. I went on and I took the very small holds, I placed my foot on the white dot and took the small edge. I had done the hard move and I was dedicated not to fall. I grabbed a better hold and I almost fell while going to the next one. Then I took another good hold and another one and finally I clipped the chain. I was overwhelmed with joy and thankfulness! ‘Thank you Jesus!’ It was really amazing!

It felt like a heavenly present. I hadn’t been sure if I would be able to climb the route on this trip and I certainly didn’t expect to climb it that day! When we arrived at the car Celine phoned her parents to tell the good news. We played a game, ate dinner and went to sleep.

The next day we took a rest day. We wanted to go to a shop to buy food, but everything was closed. Of course… siësta! So we walked through Oliana watching the houses and taking pictures. At 5 pm everything changed: children came from school, shops and bakeries opened their doors, people began walking around… It was so different from Belgium!

Oliana village

Washing our hair on a rest day

On Friday we wanted to go climbing but… rain again! There was a lot of fog, so we had another day in the car. Studying, eating, painting…

Saturday was another day of climbing. Celine and I worked out La Marroncita-8b. We had already done the first length several times for warming up (7a+). While I was working out the wind was blowing extremely hard, brrr! After the 7a+ there was a rest in a cave. Then the moves became really hard and the rock more overhanging. The last part was quite vertical with sharp tufas. After a while I did an attempt and I was able to do it! 🙂 I heard from local climbers that ‘T1- Full Equip’ was a nice 8c. The 2 crux boulders are in the beginning, so I wanted to work out these. Micha gave me the beta and I worked out this first part.

The next day I tried to work out the rest of Full Equip, but there was one move higher up which I could not do. So I just climbed to the chain (with the help of the clip stick ;-)) to take out the quickdraws.

We took a rest day on Monday. Buying food again, having a meal at the river,…

🙂

We were planning to climb 2 more days in Oliana before going to Reus to pick up Celine’s father. On Tuesday I wanted to try Mishi  flash so Celine explained me the moves from below. I fell in the very beginning which was a hard boulder. I started over again and with Celine’s help I was able to climb it. Celine did an attempt in ‘La Marroncita’ and she fell a few moves from the top. It was really great that she had climbed that far, but she had been so close!

The beginning of Mishi

Our last day in Oliana! I worked out El Gran Blau-8b+/c. I was able to do all the moves, but the final part was amazingly technical with very small holds. I did not have much time left, so I decided not to do any attempts in the route. A Brazilian women living in Spain  was doing Mon Dieu-8a+ and she told us it was a nice route. I tried to on-sight it, but fell just in the beginning. While I was working it out, Celine climbed ‘La Marroncita’, her first 8b! She wanted to do another workout in the route but felt strong and just climbed to the chain. Great! After a while I did an attempt in Mon Dieu and sent it! We left Oliana hoping to come back some time. 😉

We drove to the airport in Reus on Thursday because Peter Cuypers would join us for the rest of the holiday. I had been quite cold the days before, but now the weather was changing. It was getting really warm, so we ate an ice cream and had a short swim in a river. Then we drove on to Margalef, a climbing area where we had never been before. Passing other crags like Siurana, we realised that there is still sooo much to climb in Spain! We arrived in Margalef and bumped into the Belgian Depotter family (Christophe, Babs et Léa) with their brand new hired camper van. So we stopped to say hello. Celine and I played with Léa, while mama talked to Babs. Christophe gave papa and Peter some information about the crags and a camping place. Then we drove up a steep road, cooked a meal and went to sleep.

A Landrover can do anything!

Climbing in Margalef for the first time! We went to the sector which Christophe had recommended (Racó de les Espadelles). Beautiful conglomerate rock with a lot of pockets. Celine and I warmed up and then we wanted to try Transilvania-8a. I did an onsight attempt, but fell in the crux before an overhang. I went on and was able to climb the rest of the route. Celine worked it out too and after some rest (and  a melon) she  did an attempt and topped it! I did some more attempts. I always fell in this first crux, but I finally managed to send it. 🙂 I also worked out Braguetasso-8a+. I did all the moves, but the holds were really painful…  I did an  attempt but I fell before the rest in the middle and decided to take the quickdraws out. We walked to the car enjoying the beautiful landscape with its special rock formations.

Breakfast at our camping place in Margalef

Climbing in Margalef

Help! Already the last climbing day of the holiday. We went to Cova Soleida after having done some warm-up routes in Can Verdures. I tried Doctor Feelgood-8a and was able to onsight it! Celine was able to climb the route after work-out!

Our holiday was over. We had a gorgeous diner near the small river in the last rays of the sun and then Peter and my dad drove all night while we….slept very well.

 

Easter Holidays 2013

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I had a great time rock climbing in Spain with my parents and Celine Cuypers! We discovered the wonderful climbing areas Oliana and Margalef and climbed some great routes.

I climbed my first 8c (‘Fish eye’) and my 14-year-old friend Celine topped her first 8b named ‘La Marroncita’!

More detailed story coming soon! 🙂

Oliana

Lead Junior 2013

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This year the Belgian Youth Championship was held in Altitude CCM in Braine-l’Alleud near Waterloo. Several years ago, when I was still a Youth C climber,  I had climbed my first Belgian Championship in this climbing hall.

Chloé Caulier and I topped both qualification routes, the first one quite short and technical and the other one having a more overhanging part and small holds.

During the observation I read the final route with Chloé and we both were not sure how to climb a strange looking section, a big volume which seemed to lack holds. Our final route had orange holds (in Belgium we have 10 groups climbing at the same time, so  we climb on colours).

Chloé and me reading the final route (Photo: Cuypers)

After having warmed up and discussed the route with Celine Cuypers and Elfe Claes, both Youth B but climbing the same final route, it was my turn to climb. The beginning of the route was not too hard, there was only one tricky move just before the overhang and then there it was: the big volume.

Eventually, the moves on the volume were strange but climbable just as we had read it, and then there was a rest at the top of the volume. When I wanted to continue I discovered that the next 2 holds were really bad. I searched for some time and I finally managed to do the move by making a heelhook with my left foot on the volume. The next part was difficult too with small holds, but I managed to climb to the second last hold which was an impossible sloper. I decided to jump to the last hold and I was super happy that I could grab the last hold!

The jump to the last hold  (Photo: Cuypers)

Chloé climbed up to the confusing part just past the volume and ended up 2nd. Margot Verhaeren was 3rd. My Youth B friend Celine climbed very well, she managed to touch the last hold and won in her age group.

Celine at the tricky part  (Photo: Cuypers)

My friend Pavitra Vandenhoven (Youth B) participated again in the Paraclimbing competition and topped both qualification and final routes! Amazing! The final route was really hard and the routesetter did not think she would be able to top out.

Sébastien Berthe is now too old to compete in youth competitions, but he did a good job by demonstrating the routes, in his cycling shorts 🙂 and being a funny speaker. We now have our own Christopher in Belgium 😉

Results and pictures at Belclimb (French and Dutch) and Climb2Climb

Podium Lead Junior 2013 (Photo:  Yves Guérit)

 

Belgian Youth Cup 2 Arlon (2/2/13)

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Saturday 2 February 2013: the 2nd competition of the Belgian Youth Cup in Arlon.

Chloé and I topped our qualification routes. We had a very technical final route with some tricky moves and small holds. I was very happy that I managed to top out.

Celine Cuypers (female youth B) had the same route as me. She topped out too and ended up 1st. My friend Pavitra Vandenhoven (female youth B) was very strong in the paraclimbing competition!

Having lunch with Pavitra in the Landrover of the Cuypers family

 

European Youth Championship Gémozac 2012 (3-4/11/12)

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This year it was the first time in the climbing history that a European Youth Chamionship was held. It took place in Gémozac (France) and our cheerful Belgian team was present with not less than 17 climbers.

On Saturday the qualifications of the A and Junior categories started early in the morning. My first route was  technical with very small holds. I found it difficult and tricky and I was very happy that I managed to top the route. To my surprise the other one was built on the speed wall which made it very technical as well. Together with twelve other girls I could top the route.

Photo: Thibaud Caulier

Five Belgian climbers  made it to the finals: Chloé Caulier (female youth A), Émilie Guérit (female Juniors), Loïc Timmermans (male youth A), Sébastien Berthe (male Juniors) and me! That was already a great achievement! Unfortunately our youth B climbers were not able to reach the finals. My friend Celine Cuypers (female youth B) had to climb the same qualification routes as me. They were both very technical on vertical walls which was not nice for a competition. She was nervous because of the routes and it is a pitty that she ended up 19th although she is an incredibly strong climber.

The finals were on the same day in the evening. When waiting in the call zone we could hear the cheers of the public for Ana Tiripa (GER) which meant she climbed super well and topped the final route. Just before me Jessica Pilz (AUT) topped too and then it was my turn to climb. Although I did not find a rest in the middle of the route, I managed to top out! I ended up 3rd because of the new time-rule for European youth competitions, but I was still very happy and thankful with my place. Ana was 2nd and Jessica was 1st! Congratulations!

Photo: Thibaud Caulier

Loïc Timmermans climbed a fantastic final and became European Champion! Émilie and Sébastien both ended up 10th and Chloé 9th. The Belgian team had a 5th place in the teamranking!

Summer holidays 2012

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My parents and I left on Wednesday 4 July. We drove to La Chambotte in France.

La Chambotte (July 5th and 6th)
In Easter holidays my friend Julia Chanourdie and her family showed us this beautiful climbing area. They also showed me an 8b named ‘Tartine’. I did not succeed in doing it in Easter holidays so I wanted to try it again. On Thursday I worked it out again and I did some attempts. In the last attempt I fell really at the end. That evening we went swimming in the lake ‘Lac du Bourget’.

Lac du Bourget

Lac du Bourget

The next day I first warmed up and than I did an attempt. I fell again just at the end. Then I did another attempt and I could top it! I was so happy and thankful!

Tartine 8b

Tartine 8b


Col de Marocaz (July 8th and 9th)
The Chanourdie family also told us about a climbing area called ‘Col de Marocaz’. On the rest day we drove to this place and we discovered a very nice lake called ‘Lac de la Thuile’.

Lac de la Thuile

Lac de la Thuile

The next day we first went swimming because ‘Col de Marocaz’ is an afternoon crag. I worked out ‘Ta mère sur un spit de 8’ 8a. I could climb it in the second attempt.

A big bird we saw

A big bird we saw

On Monday we also climbed there and I tried ‘Une émeraude en or ‘ 8a+. It begins with a 7b and then there are some very hard moves on small holds. I fell 2 times there and it started to get late. I did one more attempt and I was really happy that I could top it!

A little mouse who was 'stealing' our bread

A little mouse who was 'stealing' our bread

On Tuesday and Wednesday we had rest days in preparation for the worldcup in Chamonix. We drove to a climbing area called ‘Les Garins’. In the guidebook was written that you had to drive up on a dirt road until you see a parking place. It was really funny (and quite dangerous) because the road was very bad. Luckily my father made it up to the parking place which was maybe good for 2 cars. Then we searched for the rocks and finally we found a path. It was quite adventurous.

On Wednesday we had a look at ‘Grotte de Banches’ which is a nice climbing area for Summer. We also went swimming in ‘Lac d’Annecy’ and then we drove to Chamonix.

Worldcup Chamonix (July 12th and 13th)
On the Thursday I could do my first worldcup in Chamonix! See:  news Chamonix!

Worldcup Chamonix 2012

The competition wall at the WC in Chamonix

On Saturday we went again to ‘Col de Marocaz’. I could climb ‘Tête de bite’ 7c. My father climbed this 7c too! I also tried ‘Une bite sur ma tête’ 8a+. It is quite short with small holds. I could climb it in the first attempt.

Col de Marocaz

Col de Marocaz

The next day it was by birthday! In the morning we searched for a nice French market and we found one! Watermelon, olives, earrings, dresses, bread, … I really like this! We also bought some artisanal nougat which tasted very well. We drove on to a lake where my parents gave me presents and we took a fresh dive. At the end of the day we ate pizza which was made in a small chalet in the centre of Gab. Then we drove on to Céuse.

The lake at my birthday

The lake at my birthday

Céuse (July 16th and 17th)
On Monday we climbed in Céuse. I had never been there before and it was very nice! We met a lot of competition climbers like Ana Tiripa from Germany, Sasha Digiulian, Jacquelyn Wu and Sarah from the USA, Tina Johnsen Hafsaas from Norway, Rebekka Stotz, Katherine Choong and Franz Krakenberger from Switzerland, Matilda Söderlund from Sweden, …! It was great to see so many people there! I climbed ‘Lapinerie’ 7b with Ana (she is in my age group) and together we worked out ‘Sueurs froides’ 8a+ which was very hard. I did a lot of attempts and I always fell in the beginning of the route. At the last attempt I was very tired but I could top it and it was so nice that Sasha and the others cheered me on!

In the 8a+

In 'Sueurs Froides' 8a+

The view from Céuse

The view from Céuse

We climbed in Céuse for another day. I tried to work out ‘Dures Limites’ an 8c Sasha was doing but this was too hard for me! I worked out ‘Bourinator’ 8a. I did some attempts and I could climb it in the last attempt of that day!

Céuse

Céuse

The next day we took a rest day and we drove to a small lake near ‘Ailefroide’ in ‘Les Écrins’. We already knew this place which is fantastic for swimming and campfire!

At the lake

At the lake

Tournoux (July 19th and 20th)
On Thursday 19 July we drove to a climbing area called ‘Tournoux’. There are crags which are near the road, but also ones which are higher up. We walked up but it was a bit dangerous and not very easy to reach. I worked out ‘Clin d’oeil au paradis d’en face’ 8c but there were 3 moves I couldn’t do. I decided to leave the quickdraws and try again the next day. I also climbed ‘Into the wild’ 7b+.

Tournoux

Tournoux

Friday we went to this crag again and I tried the 8c again but the moves were not possible for me so I took the quickdraws down. I worked out an 8a+ but the weather changed and it started raining very hard. I did another  7c and when we walked back to our van the rain had stopped.

Rue des Masques (July 21st)
In Tournoux we had heard from climbers about ‘Rue des Masques’ (conglomerate). The next day we went there and we met Christophe Depotter from Belgium with his family. It is a beautiful climbing area also for kids! Then I worked out ‘Racing in the street’ 8b with the
help of French climbers. I liked the route and I did 3 attempts.

Racing in the street 8b

Racing in the street 8b

On Sunday we had a nice day with the climbing family Lemière from Belgium at the lake! We had lunch together and played a lot in the water.

Swimming in the lake

Swimming in the lake

On Monday 23 July we climbed again at Rue des Masques. We met a climbing team from Germany with David Firnenburgh, Mia and Laura! My mother climbed a 7b on sight! I climbed ‘La Truite’ 7c. I did an attempt in the 8b and I managed to do it! I worked out ‘L’age en décomposition’ 8a+ which was really great. I could climb it in the second attempt and I was very happy! I had never climbed an 8b and an 8a+ on the same day.

 

Rue des Masques

Rue des Masques

The next day I could climb ‘Le druide en goguette’  7c on sight and I worked out ‘Carosse et citrouilles’ 8a. I climbed it in the first attempt.

Wednesday was a rest day for me, but my parents climbed in Rue des Masques. We also went supporting the Youth A girls who were competing at the boulder EYC in l’Argentière. In the afternoon we drove to Italy because my father had to be jury president in Val Daone for a speed worldcup.

Climbing in Arco
Terra Promessa and Massone (July 26th-29th)
We went to ‘Terra Promessa’ and I climbed ‘Progetto Caty ‘ 7c in the first attempt. I also worked out an 8a+ but it was not so nice and I could not do all the moves. We left the climbing area because the sun was coming and we passed ‘Massone’. We decided to climb there and I worked out ‘Fuego’ 8b with the help of 2 climbers from Switzerland. I did an attempt not being sure I would be able to do it the first go. I could do the first part and also the dyno. Then I started thinking that I could do it after all. I climbed on and managed to do the top part. I topped the route and I was so happy and thankful!

The Swiss guys had also told us that you can walk from the campsite to this climbing area. That was great for when my father would be at the competition so that my mother and I could easily come to this crag!

On Friday we had a rest day and we visited the beautiful town of Arco. It was very nice and, of course, we ate pizza and ‘gelatti’! We also brought my father to the competition in Val Daone.

In Arco

In Arco

 

The castle of Arco

The castle of Arco

The next day my mother and I climbed again in ‘Massone’. We had a nice walk from the campsite to the crag among the olive trees. I climbed ‘Fly Trap’ 7a+ and ‘Big spender’ 7b+. I tried to work out an 8c but it was too hard. On Wednesday I worked out ‘Super Maratona’ 8b. I could do all the moves but I found it very difficult. I did an attempt and I fell in the crux.

On the rest day we drove to a climbing hall in Bolzano/Bozen (Salewa Cube). We climbed there 2 days to train for the EYC in Imst. It is a great climbing hall which is half outside! We met Stefano Ghisolfi, his girlfriend Frederica Mingolla and his sister Claudia Ghisolfi who is in my age group!

The climbing hall 'Salewa Cube'

The climbing hall 'Salewa Cube'

After the competition in Imst we drove back home to our little cat and her kittens!