Video on Instagram TV

I just did the first repetition of this short but hard route, after @simonlorenzi‘s first ascent in November 2019. 
The crux is right above the third quickdraw. It is said to be a hard 8c, but some of the moves are definitely harder than moves you would usually find in 8c’s.

Now I’m working on the second part: continuing the traverse to the left – instead of topping out on the right as I did in the video – and going all the way to the top of the overhang (not visible on the video).

It hasn’t been climbed yet and is thought to be 9a. I’m super excited about the challenge! ?

Thanks @sven.lempereur.3 and @sebertheclimber for telling me about this route!

I came to Oliana without having a particular route in mind that I wanted to try. Arriving at the crag, I made a quick decision: Joe Mama.

In the time that followed, I went through the whole process of taming a route:
Finding the exact beta that suited me. Accepting hot temperatures and wet rock. Treating painful skin and taking extra rest days. 
I quickly felt at home in the route, but it wasn’t conquered yet!
There are almost no places to shake out or take a breath. The crux is intense on tiny holds, followed by move after move of body tension and endurance. Quite a project… but abandoning didn’t feel like the right option.

My first redpoint attempt came and I fell high up, in the crux.
Two attempts later I chose a beta change which worked: I passed the crux move shortly after. 
But then I started falling at the crux move again. And again. And again. I just felt blocked every time I reached that spot and couldn’t move my body up.
So, it was time for another change of beta. Just one extra foot movement made the difference and I was ready to keep going!
But… the end of the trip was drawing near. Only 2 more climbing days were left. And I felt so close to sending…

Another attempt. I passed the crux this time, with my new foot beta, but I fell some moves further, on a tricky deadpoint. Nooo… 
Again, I had to search for one more detail that needed to be changed. And I found it.

My 10th redpoint attempt and the last one of that day.
I taped a finger with a bloody cut. I felt more tired than before. But I was determined to fight. I passed the crux and the deadpoint move too. Only one more risky move awaited me, right below the chain, but I didn’t want to let go. And I stuck it!
What a feeling to clip those chains!!!

_

Most of the trip was spent on Joe Mama, but during a day off my project, I also on-sighted Gorilas en la Niebla – 8b+, a nice and long Oliana classic.

… why I suddenly took part in a competition again after the struggle with injury. So here’s a little update.

My arm started feeling better after the Belgian Championship last May, so competing internationally became an option again.
In the time that followed, I was glad I was able to keep training.
I clearly didn’t have a normal arm yet, but at least it was far from being as bad as it had been before. ??
And when the time came, I was ready to compete again.

So now I’d still like to get that normal arm back. 🙂
Weirdly enough, I still don’t know what the next step is: more exercises, surgery, is there no solution at all,…?
While being in Japan for the World Championships I was told that I’ve never used my shoulders in a correct way (engaging the muscles in my upper back). So… are more exercises the way to go?

Time out in the semi-final round today at the World Championships here in Hachioji, Japan. ⏰

It was special to be back in the competition scene after some time of not competing and dealing with injury. I was ready to give it my all after a good qualification round yesterday but didn’t manage to climb fast enough in semis and passed the 6-minute time limit, being a + away from making finals. Sad to end this comp in such a way. 🙁

…climbing at a Belgian crag.

So nice to touch some rock in between all the indoor training! 🙂
I on-sighted Glucose pour le Moineau, a fun 40-meter 8b.

Accelerated video on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B0HB4dxo-0c/

I have just decided to skip the first 3 World Cups of this year’s Lead season.
The preparation for the competition season was a tough one this year. Medical tests and treatments for the injury in my arm were necessary, but also time and energy consuming.
Despite those obstacles, I’m in a pretty good shape, but I do not feel ready yet to take part in the first competitions (Villars, Chamonix and Briançon).

… with Lecomte: a Belgian family business specialized in climbing and outdoor equipment with 2 shops and a webshop. Thanks for the support!
www.lecompte-alpirando.be

FRA: Nouveau partenariat avec Lecomte: une entreprise familiale Belge spécialisée en matériel d’escalade, de montagne et de randonée – des gens sympatiques qui vous accueillent avec plaisir dans leurs 2 magasins (à Ixelles et à Waterloo) et sur leur site web.
#equipetapassion

NED: Nieuwe samenwerking met Lecomte: een Belgisch familiebedrijf gespecialiseerd in klim- en outdoormateriaal met een winkel in Ixelles (Brussel), een winkel in Waterloo en een webshop.